7 questions - interview with justin cucci of root down

"We really do give a shit." That's what Justin Cucci, owner of Root Down, told me when I met with him recently. This is apparent because he took time out of his day to meet with me, just a girl with a blog. After making that statement, he told me that although they are busy, the focus will always remain on their roots; good quality food and unpretentious service. If by chance they ever stray, the concept is so strong it will be an easy reminder to get back to the focus. One might think this is a no-brainer but in the service industry, once you're hot, it's ironic how simple it can be to forget humble beginnings. Fortunately, a name like Root Down will make things easier. He went on to say, "when we were first getting started and had only 10 reservations per night we were really able to focus on these things, we want to offer that same quality when we have 100 reservations per night."

You might remember my first post, i kick it root down, about the new Denver hot spot. I ate there in January with some friends and was impressed. I shared my post with Justin (nothing like a little shameless self promotion) and he invited me back to get a better feel of the space, take some pictures and learn a little more about the concept. Now on to part two.

1 Why Denver? I'm from NYC, I spent 27 years there and started my first restaurant. Then moved to Key West for 10 years and started two restaurants. The city (NYC) is emotionally and spiritually exhausting and to an extent, Key West is just the opposite. I needed a happy medium and Denver seemed fit.

2 Tell me more about the concept. Did you always want a mid century modern restaurant or did it evolve? The seed was planted in 2007. I knew I wanted to do seasonal sophisticated food yet a little gritty. I found the garage and added the other half of the building and the interiors were inspired by the architecture. It's such a great corner I wanted to bring life to it and hopefully the neighborhood.

3 Why the name Root Down? It's a jazz term about improve and pays homage to Jimmy Smith, a legendary jazz musician. The term literally means to return to the root of the song after a jam. I want the restaurant to always come back to it's roots regardless of what direction we stray, the concept should pull us back to our beginnings.

4 You're from NYC, does the name have any influence from the Beastie Boys song Root Down? To an extent the restaurant references the Beastie Boys. Growing up in New York and listening to them was an influence on me. I feel like the restaurant has both parts; the sophistication and the grit. The dining room references the jazz side and the bar is more about the Beastie Boys.

5 What's the best kept secret? The patio. We won't open it until it's warmer but it's going to add a new life to the restaurant. A new layer.

6 Can you name a few menu favorites? The organic carrot and red curry soup with pear apple chutney, the seared diver scallops and the veggie burger sliders. The menu will change seasonally with a few favorites that will remain.

7 What about the interiors? They were spurred from the 50's gas station. I worked with a designer to help me edit and make sense of all my Craigs list and ebay vintage finds. I bought vintage pendant lights, old rotary phones, signs, gym flooring and chairs. We also installed a reclaimed 1950's phone booth located just off the bar. The space definitely inspired the interiors.

photos: all photos taken by kid collective

i kick it root down

Denver, Colorado isn't exactly known as a restaurant mecca. Don't get me wrong, there are some great places to eat but the quantity is minuscule in comparison to a city like Portland or Seattle. Being married to a man whom proudly claims he's from the Northwest has opened my eyes to how these cities feel about food and music. For lack of a better term, they are snobs. Something about inventing an entire music genre will do that to you I guess. The thing is, they have a right to be. The food there is good. It's really good. It's hip without being pretentious, it's global without being ethnic, it's organic before Safeway had their own brand. It's local, it's seasonal and the best part; it's probably not something you have had anywhere else. Meaning it's creative. 

Enter Root Down. Firmly planted in what once was a vacant 1950's service station. Complete with glass garage doors that open to a patio, mid century furnishing, a reclaimed bowling alley bar and a wall filled with tin can tops. Call it quirky, call it cozy, call it whatever you like, but it's good for Denver. The restaurant opened a few weeks ago and already has a steady following. Owner Justin Cucci, of the famed Le Waverly in NYC, hit it right by teaming with, Michael Ivey for front of house biz, Ryan Leinonen, former chef of the Kitchen, in Boulder, and Austin Bealmear, sous chef, previously of Boulder's Trilogy Wine Bar, to create what I would call Northwestern inspired food. 

I hit up the restaurant last week with some friends. We ordered a sampling of items from the salads, small plates and entrees menu. First up off the salad section was the Avocado & Grapefruit Salad and the Goat Cheese & Fennel Panna Cotta. Then Diver Sea Scallops on pickled ginger slaw, Veggie Sliders, Steamed Mussels with thai chili and lemongrass and Gnocchi in that order from the small plates. Finally Braised Lamb with Almond Couscous & Chard and a gorgeous Veggie Pot Pie off the entrees. Yeah, we went a little overboard but couldn't resist. Everything was a bite to savor. Only the gnocchi left me less than satisfied. The best part? We were served one plate at a time, we all shared and got a bite or two of each plate. The worst part? We were too full for dessert AND they were completely out of St. Germain for all their fancy cocktails.

This summer look forward to ingredients in the chef's creations coming from one of the two gardens located at the restaurant. Another forerunner in the field to fork concept for Denver.

1600 W. 33rd Ave., 303-993-4200